RET CONSTRUCTION :: Building in Florida . Volusia.  Flagler . St John County
 
 
   
 

Building Inspections

http://www.epa.gov/mold/    Ronald E Thomas               Building Industry Since 1977 

  •  State Certified Home Inspector #HI502
  •  Florida Association of Home Inspectors, Inc. #1081
  •  State Certificate Building Contractor #CBC-036370
  •  EPA Lead-Safe Certified Firm #NAT-51121-1
     Building Contaminant Technician And Mold Assessment

        (386) 589-1852

P.O. Box 730215   
Ormond Beach, Fl 32173

                Phone: (386) 589-1852      Fax: (386) 673-7837 

 www.retconstruction.com     retconstruction@gmail.com

 A professional home inspection is extremely important, particularly since a home is often the largest investment people make. To protect your investment,  professional inspectors provide a general evaluation of the home. Home inspection is a visual inspection of many accessible internal and external components of a home. Over 400 items are inspected including foundation, roof, structural components, plus all visible electrical, plumbing and mechanical operating systems of the property. A detailed inspection usually takes two to three hours or longer, depending on your home’s age and square footage. You’ll need to set-up a time for your inspection so you can be present to ask questions and look at areas needing maintenance or repair.
 
 
  Preventative Maintenance Service
  • We offer annual check-ups that may save you headaches in the future.
  • An undetected leak can cause $1000’s in repair cost as well as lead to health concerns.
  • Inefficient systems (HVAC, Windows,Insulation) can cost thousands in unnecessary utility charges.
  • Improper care of existing exterior systems (Roof, Siding, Drainage) can shorten the life expectancy of your home’s components.
     
      

What Is An Inspection? An inspection is a visual examination of the structure and systems of a building. If you are thinking of buying a home, condominium, mobile home, or commercial building, you should have it thoroughly inspected before the final purchase by an experienced and impartial professional inspector.

What Does An Inspection Include? A complete inspection includes a visual examination of the building from top to bottom. The inspector evaluates and reports the condition of the structure, roof, foundation, drainage, plumbing, heating system, central air-conditioning system, visible insulation, walls, windows, and doors. Only those items that are visible and accessible by normal means are included in the report.

Why Do I Need An Inspection? The purchase of a home or commercial building is one of the largest single investments you will ever make. You should know exactly what to expect --- both indoors and out -- in terms of needed and future repairs and maintenance. A fresh coat of paint could be hiding serious structural problems. Stains on the ceiling may indicate a chronic roof leakage problem or may be simply the result of a single incident. The inspector interprets these and other clues, then presents a professional opinion as to the condition of the property so you can avoid unpleasant surprises afterward. Of course, an inspection will also point out the positive aspects of a building, as well as the type of maintenance needed to keep it in good shape. After the inspection, you will have a much clearer understanding of the property you are about to purchase, and be able to make your decision confidently.

As a seller, if you have owned your building for a period of time, an inspection can identify potential problems in the sale of your building and can recommend preventive measures which might avoid future expensive repairs.

Can A Building “FAIL” The Inspection? No. A professional inspection is simply an examination into the current condition of your prospective real estate purchase. It is not an appraisal or a Municipal Code inspection. An inspector, therefore, will not pass or fail a building, but will simply describe its condition and indicate which items will be in need of minor or major repairs or replacement.

What If The Report Reveals Problems? If the inspector finds problems in a building, it does not necessarily mean you shouldn’t buy it, only that you will know in advance what type of repairs to anticipate. A seller may be willing to make repairs because of significant problems discovered by the inspector. If your budget is tight, or if you do not wish to become involved in future repair work, you may decide that this is not the property for you. The choice is yours.

Should I Attend The Inspection? It is not necessary for you to be present for the inspection, but it is a good idea. By following the inspector through the inspection, observing and asking questions, you will learn about the new building and get some tips on general maintenance. Information that will be of great help to you after you’ve moved in.

When Do I Request An Inspector? The best time to consult the inspector is right after you’ve made an offer on your new building. The real estate contract usually allows for a grace period to inspect the building. Ask your professional agent to include this inspection clause in the contract, making your purchase obligation contingent upon the findings of a professional inspection. 

What Will The Inspection Cost? The inspection fee for a typical single-family house or commercial building varies geographically, as does the cost of housing, similarly, within a geographic area the inspection fees charged by different inspection services may vary depending upon the size of the building, particular features of the building, age, type of structure, etc. However, the cost should not be a factor in the decision whether or not to have a physical inspection. You might save many times the cost of the inspection if you are able to have the seller perform repairs based on significant problems revealed by the inspector. Consult your professional agent for guidance. 

Payment Payment of inspection fees are due and payable by cash or check upon completion of the inspection. If you prefer, you can pay for our services by credit card (PayPal) by clicking the secure link on our Financing page.                                                                                                       

Pricing: (Residential)

Living square foot of home

  •         Up to 1,000 sf.                              $   199.00
  •         Up to 1,600 sf.                              $   225.00
  •         Up to 2,200 sf.                              $   250.00
  •         Up to 2,600 sf.                              $   275.00
  •         Up to 3,000 sf.                              $   300.00
  •         Up to 3,400 sf.                              $   325.00

**Above 3,400 sf.                              Call for pricing

  •  Wind Mitigation Inspections                              $   75.00
  •  4 Point Inspertions                                           $   75.00

Standard pricing based on typical Florida home (slab on grade).

**Call for pricing on additional property amenities such as, detached garages, pools and other structures etc.

Pricing: (Commercial) Due to the wide variety of commercial real estate, pricing to be upon evaluation of subject property

Please call Ron or Darrell (386) 589-1852   (386) 931-4489

Wind Mitigation Inspections  Windstorm Insurance rates are reduced substantially with a Wind Mitigation Wind Inspection. A wind mitigation inspection verifies construction methods that create wind mitigation discounts based on those methods providing greater protection from wind hurricane damage. The inspection can save you hundreds of dollars on your homeowner insurance  premiums. With the "My Safe Home" program discontinued by the State of Florida, wind mitigation inspections should only be conducted by Licensed Building Contractors or Architects Certified by the State of Florida.  
  
What features does my home need to qualify for the discounts?
 
  RoofShape 
  • Hip – Type I only Roof having sloping ends and sloping sides down to  the eaves line.
  • Gable – Type I only The portion of the roof above eaves line of a  double-sloped roof; the end section appears as an inverted V.
  • Flat – Type I only A horizontal roof with a pitch less than 10 degrees.
 Roof covering
  • FBC Equivalent – Type I only Asphalt roof coverings installed in accordance with ASTM D 3161 (modified for 110 mph) or Miami Dade County PA 107-95.
  • Non-FBC Equivalent – Type I only Asphalt roof shingles not meeting requirements listed above for FBC Equivalent and all other roof covering types.
  • Reinforced Concrete Roof – Type I, II or III A roof structure composed of cast-in-place or pre-cast structural concrete designed to be self-supporting and integrally attached to wall/support system.
Secondary Water Resistance
  • Underlayment A self-adhering polymer modified bitumen roofing underlayment (thin rubber sheets with peel and stick underside located beneath the roof covering and normal felt underlayment) with a minimum width of 6” meeting the requirements of ASTM D 1970 installed over all plywood/OSB joints to protect from water intrusion. All secondary water resistance products must be installed per the manufacturer’s recommendations. Roofing felt of similar paper based products is not acceptable for secondary water resistance.
  • Foamed Adhesive A foamed polyurethane sheathing adhesive applied over all joints in the roof sheathing to protect interior from water intrusion.

Roof-to Wall Connection  

  • Toe-Nail – Type I only Rafter/truss anchored to top plate of wall using nails driven at an angle through the rafter/truss and attached to the top plate of the wall.
  • Clips – Type I only Metal clips installed on each truss/rafter that attach to the side only of the truss/rafter member and to the wall frame. Metal clip should be free of severe corrosion, have a minimum of 3 nails into the truss/rafter and 3 nails into the wall.
  • Single Wraps – Type I only Metal straps installed on each truss/rafter that wrap over the top of the truss/rafter and attach to the wall frame in one location. Metal strap should be free of severe corrosion, have a minimum of 3 nails into the truss/rafter and 3 nails into the wall.
  • Double Wraps – Type I only Metal straps installed on each truss/rafter that wrap over the top of the truss/rafter and attach to the wall frame in two locations. Metal strap should be free of severe corrosion, have a minimum of 3 nails into the truss/rafter and 3 nails into the wall at each location.

 Roof Deck Attachment
  • Level A – Type I only Plywood/OSB roof sheathing attached to roof trusses/rafters by 6 penny nails (2” x 0.131” diameter) or greater which are properly spaced at a maximum of 6” along the edge and 12” in the field on 24” truss/rafter spacing.
  • Level B – Type I only Plywood/OSB roof sheathing with a minimum thickness of ½” attached to roof trusses/rafters by 8 penny (2.5” x 0.131” diameter) nails or greater which are properly spaced at a maximum of 6” along the edge and 12” in the field on 24” truss/rafter spacing.
  • Level C – Type I only Plywood/OSB sheathing with a minimum thickness of ½” attached to roof trusses/rafters by 8d (2.5” x 0.131” diameter) nails which are properly spaced at a maximum of 6” along the edge and 6” in the field on 24” truss/rafter spacing.
Opening Protection 
  • Impact resistant glass – All glazed openings (windows, skylights, sliding glass doors, doors with windows, etc).
  • Hurricane shutters – All glazed openings (windows, skylights, sliding glass doors, doors with windows, etc) must be protected with shutter devices or wood structural panels.  
4 Point Inspection: Inspections include the roof, electrical, plumbing and air conditioning. The inspection goal is to determine the approximate age of each system and condition. Customarily, four point inspections are required on homes over 50 years of age.
 
EPA Lead-Safe
Was your Home built before 1978?
Federal law requires that individuals receive certain information before renovating more than six square feet of painted surfaces in a room for interior projects or more than twenty square  feet of painted surfaces for        exterior projects or window replacement or demolition in housing, child care facilities and schools built before 1978.

Why Do You Need to Be Concerned About Lead? Lead is a toxic metal that was used for many years in products found in and around our homes. Lead also can be emitted into the air from motor vehicles and industrial sources, and lead can enter drinking water from plumbing materials. Lead may cause a range of health effects, from behavioral problems and learning disabilities, to seizures and death. Children six years old and under are most at risk.

Most Common Sources of Lead Poisoning:

  • Deteriorating lead-based paint
  • Lead contaminated dust
  • Lead contaminated residential soil
 Typical Painted Surfaces Tested During Inspection
 
 Inside of the building
  • Baseboards Heating Units
  • Built-In Cabinets Railings
  • Ceilings Shelves
  • Chair Rails Stairs
  • Doors Walls
  • Fireplaces Windows
  • Floors
 Outside of the building
  • Chimneys Mailboxes
  • Door Trim Porches
  • Fascia, Soffits Roofing
  • Fences Siding
  • Gutters, Downspouts Stairs
  • Handrails Sheds
  • Lattice Work Swing Sets
 Molds in the Environment

Molds live in the soil, on plants, and on dead or decaying matter. Outdoors, molds play a key role in the breakdown of leaves, wood, and other plant debris. Molds belong to the kingdom Fungi, and unlike plants, they lack chlorophyll and must survive by digesting plant materials, using plant and other organic materials for food. Without molds, our environment would be overwhelmed with large amounts of dead plant matter.

Molds produce tiny spores to reproduce, just as some plants produce seeds.   These mold spores can be found in both indoor and outdoor air, and settled on  indoor and outdoor surfaces. When mold spores land on a damp spot, they may begin growing and digesting whatever they are growing on in order to survive.  Since molds gradually destroy the things they grow on, you can prevent damage to building materials and furnishings and save money by eliminating mold growth.

Moisture control is the key to mold control.  Molds need both food and water to survive; since molds can digest most things, water is the factor that limits mold growth. Molds will often grow in damp or wet areas indoors. Common sites for indoor mold growth include bathroom tile, basement walls, areas around windows where moisture condenses, and near leaky water fountains or sinks. Common sources or causes of water or moisture problems include roof leaks, deferred maintenance, condensation associated with high humidity or cold spots in the building, localized flooding due to plumbing failures or heavy rains, slow leaks in plumbing fixtures, and malfunction or poor design of humidification systems. Uncontrolled humidity can also be a source of moisture leading to mold growth, particularly in hot, humid climates.

 

Click on your state or EPA Region.

 Map of the US, split into EPA regions

 
 

If mold is a problem in your home, clean up the mold and get rid of the excess water or moisture. Fix leaky plumbing or other sources of water. Wash mold off hard surfaces with detergent and water, and dry completely. Absorbent materials (such as ceiling tiles & carpet) that become moldy may have to be replaced. Learn more


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